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Apart
from being late, this article is about what went
down during the visit of the team Da Hui Hawaii
to team Da Hui Bali in 2005. With the season 2006
already starting the next visit is getting closer
and closer, keep your eyes open…
Rodrigo "Digone"
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Ocean
Warriors
(words by Matthew Ellks, Da Hui Bali
director) |
Da Hui surfers have always kept true to their
roots. Their attitude is inherent from their forefathers
who were Hawaiian warriors full of cultural pride. They
created the culture of surfing because they had an ideal
lifestyle that gave them time to create enjoyable customs
worthy of participation. Being surrouded by ocean made them
familiar with water activities. It was just a matter of
time till they harnessed the power of the waves and started
surfing.
The individuals in Da Hui tribe are full of
this cultural surfing spirit. That is why Hawaii is still
regarded “the mecca of surfing”. But these days
ask any of the Hawaiian boys and they will tell you that
they rate Indonesia´s waves on par if not better than
their own. That was the main reason why a crew of Da Hui
team riders landed in Bali in mid May (2005) ready to indulge
in some quality “ombak”. Upon arrival at Denpasar
airport Da Hui brotherhood was clearly evident by the large
number of Balinese counterparts who were there to greet
them. For in the corporate world Da Hui has also emerged
as a competitive warrior. From the North Shore of Oahu Eddie
Rothman has been slowly building a Da Hui clothing line
which now is distributed in most countries around the world.
Through a lot of hard work from a dedicated team Da Hui
has promoted it´s hardcore vibe whilst supporting
environmental awareness for our oceans.The Da Hui of Bali
were clearly excited in their brothers visiting from Hawaii.
As hugs and smiles were exchanged it was clearly evident
that the bond between island cultures was truly being threaded.
The Hawaiian boys were escorted to “Poppies
1” were they stayed each year. The Da Hui´s
personal cinematographer, Freddy, had booked them in some
pool side rooms to ensure some leisure time when they weren´t
searching for waves. He had already been in Bali for quite
some time with fellow Hawaiians Akila Aipa and Rory who
were all part of the same “Pipleline Posse”.
New arrivals included Makua Rothman, Marcus Hickman, Ricco,
Jesse and Jake.
Makua´s dad and global director of Da
Hui arrived two days later on an evening flight. He was
met by his long time friend and Balinese licensee Made kasim.
The two hadn´t seen each other for over 4 years so
there was a bit of catching up to do. Kasim haqd originally
been a guide for Eddie in the early surfing days of Bali
and they had become great friends. Eddie was sympathetic
to the suffering of the local people after the bomb and
was happy to hear things were steadily getting better. They
both chatted about old times an Eddie was stoked to hear
the swell was on the rise.
Next morning the waves were pumping. Kasim rang
Eddie and the boys from his Bukit residence and told them
to wax up their guns. From his window he could see lines
stack to the horizon. Local legend Ganti picked up Eddie
and Freddy had hired a Kijang to transport his local buddies
wherever they had to go to get barreled. After franticly
throwing their boards and Freddy´s camera gear inside
they sped off to Padang-padang in anticipation of getting
shacked of their heads. On pulling up in the Padang carpark
it was quite clear the surf was pumping. A frenzy of surfers
and cameraman were heading down the narrow entry cave to
get down to Padang’s secluded beach. Padang was firing
and at that moment therer was no better place to be on the
island. As Jesse teased the local monkeys Makua and Marcus
waxed up and headed up with several of the local Hui. The
rest of the Hui crew soon followed and it wasn’t long
till the boys experienced some epic thick pits on the infamous
inside bowl. The 6 to 8 feet surf was packing a punch and
the boys compared it with the Hawaiian Ala Moana bowl on
steroids. Their friend Jamie O’Brien knew he was dealing
with some raw power after he snapped two boards in a row.
At least fifteen boards snapped that day as the crew pushed
each other further and further inside. Kieren Perrow, ganti,
Gbleg, Awan, Makua and Jeremy Byles were all charging that
morning. Cameramen lined the cliffs and channel capturing
every worthy shot available. The energy on the beach was
alive with surfers, locals and wanitas all buzzing from
the vibe in the water.
Later that day Eddie paddled out to and took
his place in the line up. He monitored the team’s
progress like a dedicated manager would. The difference
was that Eddie wasn’t doing for the money. He only
managed these young Hawaiian kids because he really cared.
He was happy to give them the opportunity to get out of
Hawaii and travel the world. When some guy burnt Ricco he
pointed him out in the pack for Ricco to return the favor
and then some. Call it aggressive but on the flip side Da
Hui are always just looking after their own brothers. Later
in the session the boss pulled into a thick pit and came
out like he had done so many time at Pipeline before. Kasim
just arrived in time to witness Eddie exiting Padang’s
jaws. Kasim had been practicing for his for his priesthood
in the temple all morning and was keen to paddle out and
join his Hui friends. Out from the temple and into the pit
was the only way you could describe Kasim’s first
wave. He hadn’t surfed Padang for several years but
after that first wave everyone knew he was back. Young and
old Hui alike charged that day and as the boys arrived home
at their hotel that afternoon everyone had their own story
to tell and everyone was spotting a grin from ear to ear.
Over the next few days the swell dropped and
the Hawaiian boys found some fun waves at Canggu. Accompanied
by young Aloha and Da Hui team rider Muklis and his Medewi
friends everyone traded waves and pushed each other limits.
Again Eddie paddled out and put his backhand to test keeping
the younger riders honest. His intake of a durian a day
was definitely helping him snap a few turns of the top.
Some haole (Hawaiian for bule) gave Makua a mouthful behind
his back and was told to “go in” by Eddie and
the boys. The guy was extremely lucky to get off with a
warning. As Da Hui boys ripped waves apart they kept yelling
out “do something” at each other. As heavy as
they sometimes seemed there was a lighthearted fun side
full of jokes and laughter not far away. Heckling each other
was a huge part of their brotherhood.
Triple crown champion Myles Padaca arrived and
the boys focused their surfing on the other side of the
island. They hit Keramas hard and whilst the high tide was
in the morning they arrived there each day just after first
light. Ganti, Sachan and local giant Sabar surfed each session
with them. They also caught up with another Hawaiian Hui
boy, Mikala Jones. Mikala has been living in indo for quite
some time and surfed Keramas often. The whole crew shared
a few days together getting some serious barrels and they
unanimously decided Keramas is one of the best breaks in
Indo. “Mini Backdoor” was the call!
It wasn’t too long till Eddie and Jesse
had to leave and get back home to attend business. The other
boys weren’t going anywhere. They had another week
up their sleeves and wanted to make the most of it. Kasim
wanted to make sure the Hawaiians experienced a bit more
than only what Bali had to offer. He set about planning
a G-land trip through his good mate Bobby. A bit of jungle
living was a good way for the boys to finish their holiday.
Kalani Chapman had arrived with Milo and together boarded
the early morning fast boat with the rest of the “Pipeline
Posse”.
Local Hui boys Gobleg and Awan also joined their
visitors on their journey to the Javanese surfing paradise.
Freddy and stills photographer John Hepler shot footage
from the boat. It was only 4 to 5 feet but powerful enough
for Myles to snap his favorite Brewer. Gobleg took a chunk
out of his shin after it collided with his rail. One dinged
rail and one leg gouge didn’t stop him from finding
the barrel. It wasn’t epic but it was fun G-land.
Good enough for the boys to get slotted and for Kalani to
pull in and exit an 8 second tube at “Money Trees”.
Next couple of days got smaller and the boys headed back
to Bali against the wind and current on the fast boat. Being
a flat bottom the boat felt every piece of chop. When the
boys got of at Serangan they tough they had been in a few
rounds with Mike Tyson.
That afternoon Makua, Myles and Marcus packed
their belongings ready for the long haul trough Tokio back
home. It had been a great trip. Marcus summed their stay
up for all of them when he said: “Trips are as cool
as the people you share them with and on this trip we had
a crew of cool people around us!” As they said their
goodbyes the Hui boys of Bali knew it was only a matter
of time before their Hawaiian friends returned. The surfing
and good times they shared had made them all proud to be
brothers of the same tribe. Yo, lets Go!!
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