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Another swell on the island of the Gods |
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Wassup guys on the 6th last week the waves started to pick up announcing a new swell that was going to arrive on the 7th. The warer was really cold and the weather on a good part of the day was really bad with ocasional rain till mid day.
On the 6th Padang-padang was breaking with 5 to 6 feet and relaxed crowd of very few locals; On the 7th the story was different...After having surfed a few waves before sunset on the 6th at Padang i went to check it again on the following day; As the tides were too high on the morning, when it started to get close to the right time, many surfers were there waiting for the moment to go out... amongst those were the locals Rizal Tanjung, Betet, Pepen, Bol, Wayan Gobleg e Ganti Yasa besides Hawaiian Shane Dorian and all the rest of residents, tourists, photographers and videomakers on inflatable boats and jet-skis on a swell that was producing some 6' plus waves.
I analized the situation and after seeing 4 consecutive set waves beeing dropped by locals that were dropping in on each other i decided to go out at Ulus at the Outside Corner that had much bigger sets, around 8 to 10 feet.
The direction was not really good and the duration was of only one day, dropping off a lot on the next day.
There was jus few shots taken as most of the day was spent in the water waiting for the sets that were taking a real long time to come that every time were getting more scarce.
Now we wait for the next swell hoping that next time the wind and swell direction connect with the weather conditions to deliver us the goods...
See you next time, Digone.
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