SOLID SWELL ON THE ISLAND OF THE GODS... THE BIG TOMATO SHOWED UP!!!

  Thats it crew, this month of July was really something unusual here on the island of Bali and Indonesia in general... Besides the natural disasters, (our feelings go to all the relatives and friends of the victims of the Tsunamis and earthquakes and to the people of Indonesia in general!!) we had a month of many swells one after the other... without a doubt the most consistent month in many years.

  There were rumors of a Tsunami for the island of Bali for the 26th, the day after of the new moon day, a very important day on the hindu lunar calendar... many balinese went to do their prayings and offerings in the temples and beaches of the island on the 25th as usual, the difference was that on that particular night they used only white flowers in their offerings instead of the usual colorfull flowers, the special reason for that was to ask protection for the Gods for the beaches of the island... what happened on the next day was a day filled with really perfect waves all over the coast...

  First we warm up the engines at a Outside Corner of about 6 to 8 feet considered by many Uluwatu locals and residents of the area as the best Outside Corner of the last 4 or 5 years...Southwest swell, light offshore breeze and long and perfect waves without a drop out of place!!! On the following days the swell dropped off a bit staying on the 3 to 5 feet range and on the 29th finally the "Big Tomato" showed up as expected!! (new nickname given to the big swells because of the way it looks on the forecast sites)

  The 29th started with a medium swell that picked up during the day and late in the afternoon Uluwatu had 12 to 15 feet on the biggest waves of the sets and at Padang it was 6 to 8 feet on a spot way more than just crowded.

  A sad fact was the death of a surfer at Impossibles and two fishermen at Balangan, our feelings go to their family and friends!! On this day i woke up i went for a check with my friend from Hawaii Raynos Hayes that is staying at one of the hotels i organize at Uluwatu and after a session at Padang we decided to go out at Impossibles when the tide was high looking after little 14 year old Fassy from Hawaii that came with us and showed a lot of determination and attitude while taking of on some solid 8 feet sets on a 6'2... detail, the waves were thick because of the high tide and the offshore winds were very strong!!! very few ventured out and unfortunatelly one didn't make it back alive...on this session the three of us were choosing waves alone with few other surfers paddling on the distance and taking on the smaller in between sets while we were listening to the music of the local contest valid for the nationals that was happening at Bingin beach...me and Fassy took an 8 footer on the head and when i looked at her what i saw was calm and relaxation, this girl will go far!!

  On the afternoon what we saw was the full circus at Padang again... in the water the standouts on each set was nobody less than hawaians Andy Irons and Raynos Haynes, aussies Dave "Rasta" and Shawn Cansdell and the locals Rizal, Bol and Made Lana amongst dozens of other amateur and professional surfers from Hawaii, Brasil, Usa, Australia and many other nationalities that were scrambling in a very tight line up trying to get a set wave... only counting photographers i think i've seen around 30 amongst the ones on the cliffs, on the beach, on the inflatable boats in the channel, on the jetskis and swimming in the impact zone... on the beach as usual the special colors of a day of good waves at Padang but unfortunatelly without the beuaty of the girls on topless like before, none... at the same time at Uluwatu... 12 to 15 feet bombs were unloading on full force with many barrels and strong offshore winds...the standouts were the Puertorican/Hawaiian Cacho, considered by many the best in the water, Tasmania local Andy Campbell and Hawaiian Bruce Hansell amongst others...

  Many boards were broken, some dissapeared with the current and many others made their way in to the caves of Padang... many deep barrels were surfed and stories of impossible pits and heavy late drops were told at the Sunset Grill restaurant owned by Cacho, and the Bintangs didn't stop rolling while the crew celebrated another day of great waves on the balinese coast. The following day started with sets a bit smaller but with 10 feet still at Ulus and 6 to 8 feet at Padang;

  The rest of the day was filled with good waves, good weather and beautifull people on the beach at Padang while the swell was droping slowly and gradually... at Uluwatu 8 feet sets marked the end of the day while at Padang the bigger ones had 6 feet very hollow... another night of celebration at Sunset Grill togheter with locals Made Kasim and Ganti Yasa that for the second time in a roll won the master division of a contest of the Indonesian natioinal circuit. Between Bintangs and mexican food another day finished on the best blinese style, BAGUS SEKALI!!!

  Today the day started with 6 feet sets at Uluwatu and the swell should keep dropping gradually on the next days...but the forecast sites are already showing another "Big Tomato" on its way...time to sit and relax and get ready for more...looks like August is coming with the same rhythm...and the mission continues!!!

Rodrigo "Digone"