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BLESSED SEPTEMBER
September sessions - Consistency with a capital "C"...
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If it was too good to be true the consistency we were witnessing
with the swell that lasted almost 10 days at G-Land when
Speedies was on almost every day, what was good just got
better...
On the beginning of the month we were on the last days of
a dropping swell what didn't stop all the spots of the Balinese
Bukit specially Uluwatu from breaking perfect for 5 days
on the 5 to 6 feet range providing waves of excellent formation
on the ideal time of each tide on almost every section of
the reef...soon after we had a really small day and again
a pulse of 6 feet that lasted for 2 days when the Outside
Corner woke up again...a few more days on the 4 to 5 feet
range and there it was...becoming each day more real what
nobody could believe.
A swell on the 8 to 12 solid feet range for the next few
days that should hang around for 5 to 6 days and it was
visible on all the swell forecast sites since some days
before.it was too good to be true.all the surfers on the
island monitored this swell for several days until they
were sure that their eyes weren't lying.the swell didn't
back off and now it was only a matter of hours before Indonesia's
coast got this gift delivered, a swell that was big, consistent,
lasting and clean like we hadn't seen in a long time.
On the 17/9 the Outside Corner of Uluwatu had already sets
of solid 6 feet with some bigger ones and the Bommie was
delivering heavy sets from time to time...the condition
would change a bit during the day going from oil glass with
no wind or with a light breeze offshore to the lightly bumpy
with that south side shore and even some onshore punches
sometimes...better for those with more patience that stayed
all day on the spot with no hurries waiting for the right
time of each day.
On the majority of times the ocean showed an excellent condition
soon after the sunrise until 9 am and just before sunset...however
there was always good waves all day long and practically
all the surfers on the island got stoked.
While at Uluwatu we had 5 days of serious Outside Corner,
Outside Peak and Bommie that broke with 10 to 12 feet solid,
clean and hollow on the bigger days, at the same time at
Padang-padang the pipe's show didn't stop for those who
didn't search for size but for mileage in the pits...
As always a lot of professional surfers came just for the
swell like Brad Gerlach, Cristian Fletcher, Makua Rothman
and many others that had the luck to bet their coins on
this swell...from what I heard G-Land was really good before
the swell reached it's peak when it was over and washed
and the same thing happened to Desert Point...according
to a secure source Scar Reef was really big and perfect
and probably it's neighbor Super Sucks also...but the real
star of this blessed swell was Uluwatu...during the 5 days
of swell Ulu's broke with power, size, heaviness and perfection
that no one could complain about it!! And the best part,
always with very few people!!
We had a bit of everything.a rescue by a dingy that came
from Padang for those that wore the set of the day on the
head loosing their boards and could not swim back to the
cave and a team of clowns trying to tow in at the Bommie
on a morning that the waves wouldn't break bigger than 6
feet leaving a lot of questions on the air.could it be that
the locals now accepted tow in surfing at the previously
forbidden Uluwatu and by the logic isn't tow in supposed
to be used as an alternative only for the days when it's
too big to paddle???
I could spend a whole page describing the amount of heavy
weight sets that I saw breaking with 12 feet plus opening
perfect barrels with absurd sprays at the Bommie and Outside
Peak without a living soul nearby or the insane wave rides
I've seen at the Outside Corner by those that ventured out
but the photos give a better dimension of what really happened.
Amongst those who went for it and got stoked at the Uluwatu
bombs were: Brazilians Bruno from Maceió and Amauri
Abondanza, Aussie Brian, Kiwi Connor, Brian and his friends
from Kauai, the always present American big Jim and a few
other that I can't remember now but as always we had the
"usual suspects" commanding the show... Made Lana,
Cacho, Ketut Pitur, Jake, and the newest Outside Corner
ripper Michael "Soul man" that with his 5'9 fish
twin fin gave a show again...Like always the home boys did
great. Cacho took of on some bombs on the limit with his
new Hawaiian 8'3 gun and did pretty good almost exiting
a long and heavy barrel, Jake also went for it and did some
hard turns, Made Lana as always showed a line of backside
surfing of a vertical attack as if he was surfing on an
average 6 feet day, Ketut Pitur dropped many of the bigger
sets on the limit proving that he is back with extra class,
radicalism, and knowledge of the spot.welcome back to the
arena legend!!
But the real stand out was Michael "Soul man"
surfing with his 5'9 fish twin fin dropping on the limit
behind the peak on 10 feet solid waves and puling into barrels
real heavy very calm like he's been doing everywhere he
surfs when the swell gets bigger than 8 feet.simply inspirational!!
At Padang Hawaiians Mikala Jones, David Cantrell and Makua
Rothman left their mark in the turquoise pits, locals such
as Betet also made their appearance and dedicated surfers
like Brazilian João Fábio Cabral got to surf
with very few guys in the water getting an absurd amount
of waves per session like it was done in the past before
there was internet and paved roads...you just have to be
on it.
And again the swell started to drop off.today we have sets
of "only" 4 to 5 feet solid at Uluwatu and the
forecast show us a swell that should go down slowly and
gradually on the next few days...the "Blessed September"
is coming to an end, the most consistent month of recent
times on Bali and Indonesia; But believe it or not, we still
have another swell of strong intensity showing up again
on the forecast websites for Wednesday 26th and Thursday
27th.
Life is good...on Bali on September even better!!
GO BIG!!
Rodrigo "Digone"