We traveled to Jakarta and later to Padang (Sumatra) where
we were greeted by the Australian from Tasmania Kent, one
of the partners at the Macaronis Resort, and one of his
staff from the resort.
They transferred us to the Bumiminang hotel where we waited
a few hours before boarding the Ambu ambu ferry to Sikakap
where we would take a “long boat”, boat similar
to a long canoe with outboard engine and shaded area that
would take us for another hour to the boat Laut India, propriety
of Macaronis Resort.
After a little more than 24 hours between trips and connections
we were finally accommodated on board the Laut India going
to our first spot to be surfed on the Mentawais, Thunders.
Due to the fact that the swell was still very small on
the area, my Australian friends Mark and Kent, owners of
the Macaronis Resort, decided to put us first on the Laut
India so we could surf at Thunders where the swell is always
a bit bigger and check in at the Resort and surf Maccas
and the spots on that area when the swell arrive two days
later.
Definitely having the option of staying onboard of a boat
even staying at the Resort is a card up in the sleeve that
made the difference…not to mention that the Laut India
is a boat really big, bigger than most of boats that operate
on the Mentawais, has a navigating speed relatively fast
and is very spacious and comfortable.
Onboard the Laut India there were already two guests of
the Resort and all of us had private cabins with AC.
We stayed at Thunders only one day and surfed waves of 2
to 3 feet a bit inconsistent. At some point there was 7
boats anchored in front of the wave. On the following day
we surfed on the morning and as many other boats pulled
anchor just after lunch...
After almost 3 hours traveling we were arriving at Macaronis
where we stayed until the end of the trip.
We surfed almost daily perfect waves between 2 to 3 feet
with some bigger sets sometimes...the condition was perfect
on most times with most of the days glassy with no winds
at all or a light offshore breeze until mid day...
On the 26/5 we surfed the best day of the trip…3
to 4 feet waves gave us tubes and many sections for top
turns from early morning until late afternoon without a
break...it was kind of weird observe such perfect conditions
during all day and sometimes it was funny to ponder about
some comments made during the day…
“The surf is too crowded” (there was about 15
guys in the water, usually was never more than 10 but a
third boat arrived...)
“Now the wind is on...” (After all morning with
a light offshore breeze stopped by many moments of a perfect
glassy condition with no wind at all, at around 1 pm a light
breeze side shore started to blow making the tubes more
difficult; now the waves only provided little tight barrels
and top turns on the lip, about ten per wave…)
“Later will get better again” (like it will
get on a scale from 1 to 10 about 9 or 10 and not only a
7)
This was the reality we lived during our stay, it was like
in a dream to surf such perfect waves all day long and end
the day surfing in front of a paradise island with another
red and orange sunset in the sky behind the palm trees to
then go and eat like kings and finally go back to the comfort
of our villas with AC, hot water Jacuzzi and cable TV to
check the internet with the commodity of the Wifi signal
inside our bungalow to do all over again tomorrow...
On one of the days when the swell had dropped off considerably,
Me, Rosaldo and Rob went to check the local village, located
at about 20 minutes by boat going trough a labyrinth of
trees and swamps where salt water crocodiles live amongst
other local creatures from the area...
On this visit we had the chance to witness how the local
people live and we’ve met the owner of the land where
Macaronis Resort sits today. It was impressive the contrast
of seeing, on the place where live such a primitive people,
lost in time and space, last generation equipment for earthquakes
and tsunamis watch, fixed on the top of the mountain by
the American government, connected by satellite to transmit
signals in case of any kind of phenomenon of this kind happen.
Unfortunately for me, now the adventure is over.
The Internet shows again a swell of medium intensity on
the horizon for Tuesday and Wednesday next week and Rosaldo
and Robbie have already extended their trip. I unfortunately
have responsibilities on Bali that I cannot delay and the
work calls me back.
A lot of clients of Bali Surf Connection are scheduled to
arrive on the island this week, besides my girlfriend and
her family.
I hope that Rosaldo and Robbie close their trip with a big
score and get even more waves to we already had together.
Now in the company of Rosaldo’s really good friend,
the Brazilian surfer Pedro Muller that is one of the best
surfers ever from Brazil and just showed up on the Mentawais
on a boat and should also score this next medium swell that
is looking perfect.
I wish you all good luck and that Huey deliver good barrels
on this week that follows. I will follow everything from
Bali, and who knows, I might take a little escape to Desert
Point for one or two days.
I’m not made of steel…
I leave here registered my special thanks to Mark and Kent
from Macaronis Resort, also to Sony and all the staff of
Macaronis Resort that have helped one way or another to
make this dream come true.