Bali opening season 2009

And finally another season of wave hunting in Indonesia has begun…from what I’ve heard and could follow trough the internet before my arrival on the island, the rain season this year wasn’t that bad and the month of March had many offshore days on the west coast of the island producing many days of small and medium waves with a real clean condition at Uluwatu and the rest of spots on the Bukit. It sounds like Keramas and other spots on the East coast also provided many days of high quality surfing during the wet season months.

After delaying my trip twice due to some business in Brasil I ended up arriving in paradise on the 23rd of April, right on the drop of a swell that had its peak on the 21st and 22nd …I still managed to get a few good waves of 4 feet at Uluwatu but on the previous days the Outside Corner had 6 solid feet and a condition so clean that was bullshit and could make anyone drop their jaws and water their mouth just to look at the photos.

On my first wave on the following day of my arrival, I was given a present of a deep and perfect 4 feet tube at the Race Tracks making me thank God immediately having that feeling of being in the right place on the right time!! Like in my first time on Bali 14 years ago, when I got two barrels on my first wave on the Indian Ocean also at Uluwatu, one more time the Gods welcomed me and Ulus greeted me with open arms. An old love story this one…Its like my good partner of Indonesian barrels Batatinha said, all you gotta do is go down the steps to the cave at Ulus and feel the water on your feet and all the problems in the world will disappear…you got that one right, spot on bro!! That sacred cave really is the gate to my paradise!!

I could surf for two entire days before the waves drop to the floor again which for me was perfect as I had a big order of silver jewelry to organize…after 3 days of intense running and visiting my suppliers factories the order was done, the merchandise packed and delivered to the cargo company that takes care of the transportation to my import company in Brasil; Mission accomplished and work done right before the arrival of a new medium swell…simply perfect!! This beginning of season couldn’t be with more harmony…everything just falling into place as it should be…like this is even too much and I cant light enough incenses to thank the Gods.

I have already reencounter many friends around here such as Made Lana and Cacho amongst others…Today (01/5) Uluwatu was breaking with 4 feet perfect and the forecast shows a little increase for tomorrow dropping a bit again on the following days and having another pulse on the 5th and 6th when my good friend Alex will arrive on the island with his camera to register some new adventures we have planned.

The inevitable progress can be noticed by the number of people in the water and traffic jam in the island streets but as the old says goes, one person can look into a half glass of water and see either a half full glass or a half empty glass, it all depends on your attitude towards life!!...we are in Bali, the wind blows offshore all day, the water is crystal clear and warm, the sun sets on the Indian ocean making the sky red/orange above the waves, the life cost is low and the food is fresh and healthy with abundance of sea food, the barrels don’t stop peeling over the reefs, everywhere there are offerings that leave a pleasant flower and incense smell in the air and everybody smiles…its all over…I have been infected again…I must admit, im a prisioner of this life style, thanks God!!

May the first big swell come, we are waiting…ALOHA!!

Special thanks:
ULUWATU SURF PHOTO (www.uluwatuphoto.com) for the high quality surfing pictures and local people of Bali.

This article is dedicated to KIM “THE FLY” BRADLEY who passed away on Nyepy recently. May you rest in peace brother and may the swell never drop below eight feet wherever you are now mate!! Our deepest feelings go to family and friends of Kim.