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CONTENTS |
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MENTAL WAY - NIRVANA STATE |
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“Mental
Way” can also mean the path that leads to a state of
mind called NIRVANA! And that is exactly what has been happening
around here…
We are participating in the shooting of a surf movie called
MENTAL WAY on the Mentawaii islands and this time we got
real lucky; Nature has helped us and we had a waves forecast
simply perfect!!
We arrived on the islands on the 17th with a small and
perfect swell that started to increase and gain power gradually
while the forecast showed us that we would have three medium
to big swells one behind the other completing a magic fusion
that materialized in form of 9 days of perfect waves on
the 6 solid feet range with good weather and light winds
that started on the 21st and will go until at least the
29th according to the forecast sites…sincerely, in
over 14 years of Indonesia it has been a long time since
I’ve came across such perfect conditions for such
a long time for surfing in Indonesia. We are really blessed…
Yesterday (22/5) was the first of many days of great waves;
We woke up and went to the right called Riffles that was
simply perfect with 6 solid feet; After a while the wind
started to blow and besides the condition at Riffles were
perfect still, our Hawaiian guide Joey told us we should
make a move to Kandui where it was probably offshore and
with no one out…its hard to leave a spot with good
waves but we ended up going back to our “backyard”
and what followed was just absurd…We surfed for 3
hours alone Me, Rosaldo, Andrea and Joey while Marcinho
and Alê shot from two different angles long and hollow
lefts so perfect that seemed those from the drawings of
the back of my scholar books from my teenager years; Perfect
4 to 5 feet barrels were peeling off on the shallow reef
with a light offshore breeze and would go for 400 to 500
yards blowing 3 to 4 spits before ending in the channel
close to the boat…we collected a lot of images and
unforgettable tubes…
After this session everyone had that typical smile of somebody
who is living a unique moment on his/her life as a surfer…
“only a surfer knows the feeling…”
We celebrated the day with a round of cold Bintangs around
a fire on the beach watching one more orange sunset above
the Indian ocean on the island where we are staying right
in front of the wave of Kandui that was still breaking alone
by the end of the day giving us a little sample of what
is still on storage for us over the next 7 days of swell…
This trip has been a personal overcome to everyone, we
are living a very special moment and we have that common
feeling that only who surf great waves with their friends
can understand…and we still have 7 days of great waves
ahead…The Nirvana mental state is constantly present
around here…at everyday that starts, at every time
we cruise by boat looking for waves, after each surfing
session, after each barrel, at each sunset and each night
full of stars in this paradise going to sleep to the sounds
of waves in our beach front bungalow.
MENTAL WAY, the mental path can lead to NIRVANA!!
Special thanks: Jordan and Amen from Kandui Beach Villas,
our guide Joey and all the staff here at the resort.
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