After the trip it was time for each of us
return to their life…the mental way had been covered
and now it was time to get back to the reality…
At Bali that meant few waves, big crowds and a flat forecast
so flat that I couldn’t remember seeing in years…
Besides everyone having had at some moment
of the trip a personal overcome due to the tests we had
to go through daily, the “Director” Ale Ribas
use to joke that in my case there was nothing to overcome
as that trip was almost like a routine for me because I’m
so used to travel all the time to places really far in search
of perfect waves for over a decade…he was right…sort
of!! In my case the overcome didn’t come during the
trip but after as I let my self go with the emotion and
nearly put two years of physical, mental and spiritual cleanliness
down the drain when I started to drink some beers to join
the crew and ended up falling on the abyss of darkness as
soon as I arrive in Bali and nearly got trapped on the well
known traps of Kuta nights. Drink+Gudang+Motorbike=DANGER
OF LIFE, HEALTH AND PHYSICAL CONDITION DAMAGE AND MORAL
HANGOVER!!! Lesson learned or better, remembered, the overcome
had finally come to me too. Thank you God for I’m
here still…haha
During this flat week I ended up moving
to Kuta…After 9 years living in the Bukit area between
Padang-padang and Uluwatu the increasing volume of the business
by internet (time on the internet daily/necessity of a fast
internet connection at home) and the increase of competition
on the surf travel business in the region made me take a
radical decision to go change the scenery.
On the bright side of this change I have
now a much more comfortable life in a hotel with swimming
pool. Hot shower, cable Tv and all the commodity of the
XXI century, a big variety of good restaurant at every 10
steps, good clubs and gyms to keep fit during flat spells,
etc…believe it or not even on Kuta’s chaotic
life the amount of stress I’m putting up with daily
seems to be a lot less than before…I only miss waking
up close to the waves but everything has its price…
On this moment we are waiting for the first
swell of the season, I will stay in Bali and wish good luck
to those that go travel…specially to Desert Point…from
what I’ve heard unfortunately at Deserts the circus
has arrived for good…famous professional surfers traveling
in packs, new comers pretending to own the spot with ridiculous
attitudes, dropping in on whoever is on the wave even if
the guy is in the barrel on the shallowest part of the reef…that
can still end up badly and someone can get seriously hurt!!
Times have changed!!
Talk about Brazilians now…
Here in Bali we have perfect tides for Padang
almost all day long and for sure at Uluwatu the crowd won’t
be more than 10 to 15 guys…all it takes is the swell
go past the 8 solid feet scale and the crowd disappear…thanks
God somethings never change!!
I see you out there, whoever is keen!!
ALOHA!!!!!!!!
