And
so we had another two pulses before the end of August
not to mention the last one that is predicted to the
30th. Without a doubt the most consistent month with
swells recently…nothing big but a lot of medium
swells and a few big ones made the month of August
a month with a lot of surfing in the blood.
On the third week of the month we had many days of
good waves at the Peak and a special weekend where
the Outside Corner worked with 6 feet solid and a
very good condition producing some barrels and really
long waves. In the water a Brazilian crew to be noticed,
amongst them Guilherme Herdy, Roiler Gracie, Pek,
Fred, Marcinho, etc…the vibe in the warung after
surf couldn’t be better and many ended up going
all the way to the white ceremony later…Bali
style…
Soon after I made my reservation for the JUNGLE SURF
CAMP and headed to G-Land as the forecast sites were
showing a medium pulse that would last for 3 days
with tides and swell direction perfect for Speedies
for the following days…I was really needing
get out of Bali for a while as I didn’t go on
any trip since the beginning of June when I got back
from the Mentawaii besides living now for the first
time in a decade outside of Uluwatu (Kuta) which was
already making a bit restless. When I arrived in the
jungle and felt the calm and tranquil rhythm without
the noise of cars and motorbikes and surrounded by
nature I felt a huge relief…finally some peace
and relaxation…
On the day of my arrival the waves were pretty small
and I’ve decided not to surf and took the day
to rest and enjoy the nature adapting to the natural
rhythm with no hurries of the jungle…pure magic…
On the following day the swell showed up and we had
waves at the Money Trees and Speedies with 5 to 6
feet solid. The swell had the perfect direction for
Speedies and the waves came breaking from the Launching
Pads all the way to the channel. Unfortunately not
all the waves had perfect open barrels. Some were
peeling for a while and then they would throw a section
closing at the green cobra but the ones that had come
in the perfect angle in the reef and opened perfect
were just a joke. The Money Trees also provided very
good barrels and many guys came in stoked on this
day.
The peak of the swell was expected for the next day
and the expectation during the dinner was big; Everyone
was getting ready for an 8 feet solid Speedies for
the next day but unfortunately against all the forecast
sites and our so advanced technology Mother Nature
decided to make a practical joke on us and the day
had started with a bit smaller waves than the previous
day; In anyways the waves had 4 to 5 feet on the sets…While
this was happening other spots such as Deserts had
bigger waves than the previous day…Mother Nature
was proving to us again that when she wants she really
is unpredictable…
Even then, besides not being epic days at G-Land,
in those 2 days of this swell many barrels were ridden
and many really long waves were surfed at Money Trees
and at Speedies. But sure enough there will be rumors
of epic waves at Speedies like there was about Deserts
that from what I’ve heard it was breaking with
average to good conditions…but I’m already
used to it, its normal from the human beings…
It was really good to be able to spend this 4 days
in the jungle and see all my friends from the Jungle
Surf Camp staff again such as Jim Bean and Wiwi and
the old surfing crew like Burky, Eddie and many others
besides the new friends that I’ve made in this
trip such as my partner and roommate Mauricio and
others that I’ve met on this few days trip.
A fact to be mentioned was an Australian girl of only
15 years old that was traveling with her father and
was charging taking off on some solid sets leaving
a lot guys far behind…nice to see, this girl
will go far and has got surf in her veins; It was
really nice to watch her surf with her dad. A truly
surfing family!!
Now I’m back in Bali again…as usual I
celebrated my arrival back in civilization with a
mega sushi session…But besides the comfort and
variety of good restaurants, the sounds of cars, motorbikes
and night clubs is now part of the daily routine…
Thanks God we have another pulse expected for the
30th. This time I think I will stay here as this pulse
looks like is only a one day thing and to be honest
I miss taking off on some solid waves at my beloved
Uluwatu…because despite everything, Bali has
its own magic and I still in love with this island!!
ALOHA!!
Special thanks: JUNGLE SURF CAMP and JOHN HEPLER for
the high quality photos
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